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Nizamuddin · closed for the night · ₹
The scene
Overview
Every Thursday after sunset, qawwals sit in the marble courtyard of the 14th-century dargah of Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya and sing until the crowd forgets the time. You reach it through a lane of attar, rose petals and kebab smoke; inside, knees touching strangers, the harmonium starts and the hair on your arms stands up.
Go barefoot, cover your head, and put a little money in the qawwals' cloth when a song moves you - that is how the night runs. Women sit to the side of the courtyard.
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