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Old Delhi · closed for the night · ₹₹
The scene
Overview
Shahjahanabad before it wakes fully - nihari simmering since midnight, the first jalebis hitting the ghee, bedmi-aloo on leaf plates, and lanes you can actually move through. A self-made crawl through Chandni Chowk's 300-year-old breakfast, eaten standing up with the people who have done it every day for decades.
Start at 7am at Jama Masjid Gate 1 for nihari, then walk to Paranthe Wali Gali and finish on warm jalebi. Come hungry, carry cash, eat where the locals stand.
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Hours